A study to forecast the waves at Digha

Abstract

In this article instrumental record of waves and wind speeds at Digha have been utilised to forecast wave characteristics, namely, the wave period and wave height. The spectrum of waves as devised by Neumann, has been used to establish an empirical relationship between the wind speed and the period of maximum wave height, also this has been used to derive a relationship between the wind speed and the optimum value of wave frequency. Co-cumulative power spectra have been drawn to study the distribution of energy, and the significant range of periods of the sea waves at different wind speeds. From the observed records, values of maximum wave heights at corresponding wind speeds have been determined. An empirical relationship between the maximum wave height in deep sea, and the speed of the generating wind is established. Significant wave heights at corresponding wind speeds were also calculated, and a formula relating significant wave height to the wind speed has been provided.