Wave modelling in the oceans and in the regional seas: A critical look and perspective

Abstract

The state-of-the-art in wave modelling is reviewed, with particular attention on the problems arising by its application in the regional seas. After giving a compact description of a spectral wave model, the different scales of application are discussed, highlighting the practical implications. The most relevant uses are described, with a critical analysis of the physical and numerical parts of a model. Then the relevance of the accuracy of the input wind fields is considered, stressing its importance for the accuracy of the derived wave results. The problems connected to wave forecasting are considered. The conclusions indicate expectations for further developments in the near future.